How to Remove Car Badges – A Guide to Types, Tools & Traps

Removing car badges might seem like a simple job, but it can easily go wrong — from scratched paint to broken clips or lost bolts. In this post, we’ll walk you through the most common types of badge attachments and how to safely remove each one without causing damage.

1. Self-Adhesive Badges

Most modern cars use adhesive-backed badges. These are generally the easiest to remove, but still require a bit of care:

  • Start by heating the area with a hairdryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive.

  • Use fishing line or dental floss (crossed and “sawn” back and forth) to separate the badge from the body.

  • Never use metal tools directly against the paint – always protect the surface.

  • Once removed, roll off the adhesive with your thumb or a plastic squeegee.

  • Finish with tar & glue remover or isopropyl alcohol to clean up any residue.

Pro tip: If we're planning to reattach the badge, we always take reference photos beforehand or outline the position with masking tape.


2. Locator Lugs / Push-Fit Badges

Some brands like BMW use badges with plastic pins that slot into rubber grommets behind the panel.

If we assume it’s glued and start tugging, we might waste time or damage the paint.

  • Try fishing line first to see if it gives.

  • If not, gently pry using plastic trim tools, applying even pressure.

  • Some emblems sit recessed, making access tricky.

  • And beware: a previous owner might’ve reinstalled it with epoxy glue. We’ve seen it.


3. Spring Clips

These are the worst. Used by high-end brands to secure expensive badges, spring clips are made to prevent removal (unless you're a dealership charging £300/hour).

  • We'll need access to the back of the panel and a clip removal tool.

  • If we’re lucky, they’ll pop off with a flick. If not, prepare for frustration.

  • WD-40 can help if corrosion is making them stick.

  • The clips often break or bend, so we always keep spares ready before we start!


4. Bolt-On Badges

These are held in place by bolts, and with any luck, they’re in a spot we can reach without slicing up our hands.

  • We use cranked spanners or a small ratchet to remove them.

  • Threads may be rusted, so we soak with penetrating oil beforehand.

  • Copper grease on the threads before reinstalling makes life easier next time.

  • A magnet tool is a must — because yes, bolts will fall into unreachable engine bay corners.

And a word of warning: always order spanners one size smaller than you think you’ll need. And square. Trust us.


Final Thoughts

Removing badges can be a clean, easy job — or a frustrating mix of glue, clips, and hidden bolts. With the right tools, prep, and patience, we can avoid the headaches and get it done right.

Good luck — and don’t ask how we learned all this…